In fact, the Blossom collection was not Louis Vuitton’s first venture into the colorful world of spinels: in 2012, its stunning Voyage dans le Temps haute joaillerie collection featured “spinels in unusual and rare hues”; with stones sourced by Vuitton’s chief gemologist, who “travelled the world to find the best examples of exceptional spinels”. 

Louis Vuitton is just one of many illustrious fashion houses using spinels in its jewelry: Chanel’s ‘Jardin de Camélias’ Collection, created in honor of Coco Chanel’s favorite flower, features vivid black and pink spinels, while Tiffany’s 2013 Blue Book presented pink and violet spinels, as well as an astonishing Jean Schlumberger “snake” bracelet with diamonds and pavé red spinel. Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection included a ring with a large violet spinel.

As prices for fine spinels rise ever higher, contemporary jewelry designers are incorporating the stones whenever they can find them, producing stunning modern pieces with unusual materials.

Wallace Chan, a self-taught jeweler and sculptor from China, was the first Asian designer to be invited to display his work at the prestigious Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris. Chan’s unique, otherworldly creations utilize precious materials such as titanium that complement the spinel’s fire and vividness; a notable example is a magnificent ring centering on a cushion-shaped red spinel weighing 9.43 carats, highlighted by diamonds and an oval amethyst.

James Taffin de Givenchy, the nephew of the celebrated French designer, is known worldwide for “sculptural designs that maximize the individuality of each gem stone and the unexpected use of materials from rubber, to ceramic, to the steel of recycled AK-47s.”

Joel Arthur Rosenthal, the American-born designer known as JAR, is renowned for his reclusiveness and exclusive client list in addition to pieces that have remained innovative over the years. In a rare interview with the Financial Times, he said that “he has never been about enormous gems, but rather color and shading.”  When he began working with stones, colored gems were “not regarded as precious”. “People used to call spinels ‘that fake stone’! Thirty years ago I could get a great spinel for $300/carat; today they are $15,000/carat.”

Adeleh Petochi, co-founder of New York-based Eclat, has always been a spinel fan, explaining to the New York Times that she “began using spinel in 2005, when she was able to buy huge lots of the gem”. She says, “People like us — we’re stone people — are very attracted to spinels, but we can’t buy that kind of merchandise anymore because prices have gone up so tremendously.”

Young designers such as Evan Yurman and Eddie Sakamoto have also worked with spinels. Yurman, in particular, is “passionate” about the stone, using black, pink and lavender spinels in both men’s and women’s jewelry.

Spinels are getting harder to find; but on the other hand, their renewed status means that talented young designers are going to be producing even more fabulous pieces in the future…which seems nothing less than bright, colorful and vibrant.